Man don’t you just hate copycats! Yet here I am, once again following instead of leading this time working on a Work Sharp 3000 stand a la Stumpy Nubs. The interesting part for me is that I’m building without any plans. I watched Stumpy’s video and subsequently watched Lance build a nice version in Lance’s Woodshop & Adventures. My sharpening regime is well, non-existent?!? I know the importance of sharp tools, I want sharp tools but I haven’t ever been able to get any consistency with my sharpening. I wrestled with getting a set of water stones but I already have a sand paper system and I also wanted something that would help me grind, every tool in my shop easily. Then if I’m not happy with the honing I get off the Work Sharp, I can always go to sand paper on a flat surface. If I’m still not happy I might start looking into diamond paste. First I have to get close and this is why I bought the WS 3000.
I’ve spent very little time with it but I have done some rough grinding to set bevels on two sets of “beater” chisels. I will attempt to hone them next but first I was hoping to build this stand so that I could use my honing guide. So there is a reason why I want to build it but it is also a good exercise for me to build something on the fly. I didn’t get much time on Friday to work on other than to work out some dimensions and rough out my parts.
I doubt it will be as pretty as either Stumpy’s or Lance’s but I have every reason to believe that one way or another I should be able to make my version serviceable.
A Turtlecovebrewer Shop Update
As the saying goes, “There’s good news and bad news, which do you want to hear first?” The good news is that I’m taking a vacation this year, one weekday a week through the end of 2014. This means longer weekends and shorter work weeks for the near future and more time to play in my shop. The not-so-good news is that a fair portion of this “vacation” will be consumed dealing with chores and family matters. In balance I think it good news overall.
Build Day 8 – Routing the Corner Bead
So my piece-meal vacation began with a half day off on Friday and this granted me a few hours in the shop to finish up the tool chest I’ve been working on. With my groovy 1/8″ radius corner beading bit in hand I mounted the 1/2″ collet and began the setup on my router table. I would be beading both the top and bottom drawer fronts and although the router scares me, I was cautiously optimistic that this would go alright. True, I was a little nervous about mangling the drawers that took me so long to build but we woodworkers must be brave if we are to progress. What could happen right?
Using a scrap, I carefully adjusted the fence on my router table, then tweaked the router bit height so the radius of the bead would be centered on the plywood drawer bottom with the quirk groove just above the plywood. Awesome, I was ready to give my first drawer a try. As I made a dry run on the route it was immediately obvious that I had a major problem. For those of you who happen to listen to the FWW Shop Talk Live podcast you’ll be familiar with the segment they call “Smooth Moves”, where the hosts share their recent shop foul ups and blunders. For this post mine would have to be the decision to install the pulls before routing the drawer front beads. “What would you do with a brain if you had one?” Well I certainly wouldn’t do it that way next time! No way I was going to be able to use a router fence, I’d have to rely on the bit’s bearing….. OK I can do that, so far so good only half-way through the route, the bit bumps into the pull… Oh crap! Turns out the pull interferes with both the bottom and the top route. Darn. After wasting a lot of time in great thought I realize that short of cutting off all the pulls, I was going to have to route to the pull, then begin the route on the other side of the pull leaving chunks of wood to chisel out and shape by hand. Top and bottom on all 10 drawers. Fair enough I’m a woodworker, let’s get on with it.
Naively, I suspected the bottom route would be trickier than the top but I hadn’t accounted for the fact that without the drawer bottom to ride along, the top sides would glide smoothly until, they dropped off the edge of my small bench top router table, allowing the router bit to make an ugly gouge in my otherwise very pretty bead. OK make a note of that and hold on to the work piece accordingly which I mostly did yet still with some glitches. So I thought about placing the drawer on a piece of plywood as a carrier and this could have been done if had chosen to route all the bottoms first before adjusting the bit height to account for the carrier thickness. I chose to leave the bit set and route both top and bottom using the same setup. Next time I would probably use the plywood and change the setup.
After routing I had a lot of carving to do to form the bead around the pulls. I used chisels to hog out the quirk and shape the bead and various small files to fine tune the groove. It was trial and error but with 10 drawers to practice on, I finally got the hang of how best to do it. Remember this is a “hand crafted” tool chest and there will be no mistaking it from a manufactured piece. Because of this fact, I decided not to fix the bead defects rather I left them for “character”.
Build Day 9 – Final Drawer Fitting and Finish
Relieved that I had “completed” the beading (both mechanical and by hand), I surveyed the drawers for fit and final finish. I had two drawers that needed some work, one of the two was too wide across the front. I took a block plane and chisel to it removing wood until the drawer slid smoothly. Then one drawer at a time, I relieved all the edges and sanded the drawer bottoms so they would slide as easily as possible. It was a fair amount of work with 10 drawers but it was necessary for that professional, polished look.
I was finally ready for a light sanding with the random orbital sander and 220 grit sandpaper. A tack cloth removed the dust and I was finally ready for a coat of clear shellac. I’ll put several more coats of the undiluted clear Zinsser shellac on it over the next week knocking off the high spots in between coats with 500 grit sandpaper (by hand). I’ll take the advice I read recently and will dilute the shellac to 60% with alcohol for the final coats.
The build wasn’t perfect but overall I am happy with the result. I have learned many valuable lessons and many tasks did go as I had planned. Some things didn’t go perfectly and I have tried to give thought as to how they might be done differently (and more satisfactorily) next time round. Thanks for sticking with me…..
You have been reading an excerpt from the shop journal of the Turtlecovebrewer.
To every thing there is a season,
And a time to every purpose under the heaven:
A time to be born, and a time to die;
– Ecclesiastes 3:1-2
This beautiful poem goes on of course but it seems that I am at the age where I have the honor to attend many funerals. Susan and I attended a service this weekend for my brother’s mother-in-law and even though it was a beautiful tribute with lots of humor and good cheer, tears can’t help but find their way round.
After the memorial my brother and I rendezvoused at my mom’s house for another difficult task. Mom is now officially in assisted living and now knows that she will never return home to her house. My brother and sister-in-law now live 150 miles from Orlando; I and Susan over 100 miles. The house can not be cared for and must be sold. Before listing the home however, a lifetime of my mom and dad’s belongings must be dispersed. There is a great deal that must be done and time is of the essence. My brother and I are blessed and we know it yet moving from room to room, sifting through closets decide what will be kept, by whom and what will be sold off for pennies at an estate sale. A lifetime sorted into tiny bundles, another tear moves down to the corner of my eye. Blessed but also a little bit stressed.
Hurriedly loading “my inheritance”, Susan and I return home physically drained and mentally exhausted. Susan decides that Sunday must be dedicated to cleaning our own house so more chores to do including unpacking the cars and putting up Mom’s gifts to us. One of the items that I laid claim to was a WorkMate Plus which for the last 15 years has been serving as a table in the garage. The WorkMate was one of the few items that I truly wanted and felt I could actually use. When I went to pack it up to put in the car I realized two things, 1) it needed lubricant and 2) I don’t know how WorkMates operate. Five minutes later and with the help of my brother, we had it folded up and loaded in the car.
After cleaning chores and unloading the car, I had a few minutes to lovingly fondle my new prize. I took a brush to the spider webs and tightened the bolts on the movable chock. I pulled out the WD40 and cleaned up the twin screws while lubricating the pivot points on the legs. I began to admire the design elegance and began to speculate how I would this compact bench inside the shop and out.
Then it hit me, this WorkMate belonged to my Dad. Suddenly warm memories of him flood over me. This portable workbench is just a thing, but it was HIS thing and every time I use the bench I will think of him and of the times we built things together. Suddenly I felt better, my memories of him made me feel better. Dad’s been gone now for 3 years and we all miss him. Thank-you for everything Dad, I’ve always loved you and always will.
You have been sharing memories and tears with the Turtlecovebrewer.
I hope all my US friends had a safe and rewarding Labor Day weekend. I was able to get a couple things done around the house including a huge mowing job and some laundry. Better yet, I cobbled together a day of work on the tool chest
Build Day 6
Work has been slow but study with respect to gluing up the drawer bottoms to the frames. I bring two frames and two bottoms over to my bench and after applying glue to the perimeter of the frame, glue and pin nail. Then the bottoms of the two frames are placed face to face and I glued the assembly adding 10 clamps about the perimeter. I set the timer for 30 minutes after which I unclamp the drawers and slice off the glue squeeze out. This process is repeated until all the drawer bottoms have been glued. During the 30 minute glue setup period, I fit the previously glued drawers to the case using a block plane on the plywood sides. All but two of the drawers slide easily now with two that work OK but I’m still not happy with them.
Once I had the drawers completed, I could move to the next step, attaching the drawer pulls. The plans called for 3/4″ purple heart plugs made with a plug cutter. As I previously mentioned, I wasn’t going to use purple heart this time and although I could have made plugs out of pine, or oak or cypress, I decided the best course was to use the poplar dowel I had purchased for the job. This would save me time and I was concerned the plugs would not look good. Pine is too soft and the sides of the plug look would not be suitable for pulls. Using a hand saw I cut 10 3/4″ poplar blanks from my dowel and then trued them up on my belt sander. To give them a bit of character, I beveled the exposed edges by hand, to give them a “rustic hand-made” appearance. Right, well if I had cobbled up some sort of jig perhaps I could have made them a bit more uniform but being a novice, I opted to embrace the whole “it’s not perfect because it’s made by hand” theme.
Using a 1/4″ ply cut-off I made a template of the drawer face, drilling an 1/8″ hole where I wanted the pulls to be mounted. I chucked up an 1/8″ drill bit and a set a depth stop collar to prevent me from carelessly drilling right on through my drawer front (Yikes!). Pulls were attached using an 1/8″ dowel so hole also had to be drilled in the center of each pull. Mr. Stack shows jig he used on the drill press, essentially a board with V notch cut so the plug can be held exactly in place. I tried this but my holes weren’t in the center of the pull. This has been a nagging problem in my skill set and I’m still looking for a good circle center finder tool. I have one but it doesn’t work. Anyway, the next time I do this I’m going to try drilling a slightly over-sized hole the size of the plug so that I know the plug can’t move, then dial in the center using test pieces. For this assembly however I worked a different solution. Even though my dowel hole wasn’t perfectly centered, I drilled all 10 pulls the same. During the glue up, I spun them all around so that the pull reached its lowest point and thus they would all be essentially lined up. Of course I just eye-balled it but I now repeat the adage, “if it looks fair it is fair” and it will just add to that “rustic charm”.
Build Day 7 – (couple hours)
The final step of the actual build phase will be to route 1/4″ beads along the top and bottom of each drawer. As I’ve said before, I have a love-hate relationship with the router and although I respect its capabilities, she scares me a bit. The first thing I had to do was to even figure out which router bit I needed to purchase to make the bead. I didn’t even know what it was called and when I searched for beading router bits I learned there were many profiles including the humble and venerable round over bit. I finally found this profile called either “traditional beading” or in other cases “corner beading”. Then I couldn’t decide which bit to purchase Amana, Whiteside, CMT, Freud, etc. and then I balked at the prices. So then I started looking at the possibility of making a scratch stock beading profile and found it entirely approachable. So much so that I’d love to try my hand at it, sometime but for this project I pulled the trigger on a CMT 1/4″ radius 1/2″ shank corner beading bit. Being a Prime Member (hey I’m special!) I promptly received the bit in 2 days and only when I opened it up did I realize the mistake I had made. Although the plans call for a 1/4″ bead I needed an 1/8″ radius bit to make that 1/4″ bead. Truly a Rookie mistake but one that didn’t really surprise me because earlier I had read a review about a customer complaining that he ordered the right bit but they had labeled it incorrectly and it was the confusion thing between radius versus full bead (diameter) being double. So the good thing about being a Prime Member is I can quickly and easily order another bit, this time in the correct size. It should be delivered tomorrow.
Meanwhile, I chucked up my flush trim router bit and routed the leading edge of the drawer bottoms flush to the drawer fronts. I had left these proud both to leave me wiggle room but also to have something to grab so I could open the drawers before the pulls were installed. This only took me an hour or so once I removed all the lumber from my router table. The only trick here was to clamp on a couple pieces of ply to the sides to give the bearing something to track on. Remember these pieces extend beyond the drawer face and I didn’t want to round them over carelessly. With the fronts of the bottoms now flush with the drawer fronts, I’m ready to route the beads. I have a funeral to attend this Saturday but with luck, I’ll be about to complete this final step on Sunday.
Then it will be my favorite pastime – finishing! If I get some time prior to the weekend, I can get the case and drawers sanded. I’ll have to clean up the drawers after beading but in theory I could seal and coat the case ahead of time. I’m going with shellac.
You have been reading an excerpt from the shop journal of the Turtlecovebrewer.
I made a journal entry back on June 23, 2014 in which I noted that I had placed an order for electronics components from a company called Futurlec, LTD. So let me share with you the saga of my customer experience with Futurlec.
I discovered Futurlec quite by accident or I should say Google found the company when I was looking up data sheet information on various transistors I had salvaged. Now if you’ve ever looked up data sheets on electronic components you already know that there are many, many resources for this information but as it turned out I found the content and layout of the sheets hosted on the Futurlec site was of great value to me. A few days later when I was musing over which company to purchase parts from, I Googled “best place to buy electronic components” and found this Instructable, “10 Best Electronics Suppliers“. At one point I also “looked up” Futurlec and the information that came back stated they were an American based company out of New York. This turned out to be totally misleading but I at least felt comfortable that they were a legitimate company.
The only other criterion I had was that I wanted the convenience and reduced shipping expenses of a single order so basically I was looking for a supplier where I could find all (or most) of the components and order them at one time. I was pleasantly surprised to see that Futurlec listed all the components that I had been searching for and more. The site was reasonably easy to navigate and I finding all the items I needed. I did notice for example, that all 6 colors of LED listed were not always In Stock, so I was very careful to limit my order to those items that were not shown to be on Back Order.
June 16, 2014
So after a week or two of confusion I took the time to place my first online electronic component order with Futurlec. The order was $33 with $6 shipping and I received a “Many thanks for your order….”. The next day I received an email, “Dear Sir…..We have been unable to clear the amount from your credit card. It appears the card number you have entered may be wrong as the number is coming up on our terminal as an invalid card number.” I was advised to “By the way, please place a new blank order on our website . Then, advise us the order number you received and we can match your updated card dettail with this order 2xxxxx” and “If you have any further inquiry, please feel free to contact us”. At this point it is entirely plausible that I entered my card number incorrectly although this hasn’t really happened to me anytime in the past that I can recall, still I don’t deny that I could have made a mistake.
June 17, 2014
I attempt to clear up the credit card error by following their directions to place a blank ($0) order but when I saw that I could be charged for shipping, even with a $0 order it held me up and I aborted the task.
June 18, 2014
Still intoxicated with the hubris of my first order and feeling the need for my next “bump” I reasoned I would go ahead and buy even MORE stuff because if I’m going to pay for shipping, I might as well go ahead and buy all those other toys I had spotted the last time I shopping. My second order was for $76.95 plus $9 shipping. I then attempted to match up the two orders as I had been instructed in the first communication and then ….
June 25, 2014
Having had no reply or communication from Futurlec I email to a different email address inquiring as to the status of my orders. I didn’t know if either order was still being processed and whether or not they had matched the credit card information between orders to proceed.
June 26, 2014
I received an email from “amp” the next day, “Only these seven parts below are unavailable from your order and are currently out of stock. ” So let’s see, I guess I was to assume they had matched up my orders but wait, I made sure that nothing I ordered off their website was out of stock. Now I find out 7 items are in fact out of stock. To be more specific, two were “no stock” and the other five were “ETA 2-3 days”. The only clue I had was the note “Would you like to cancel this and ship your order when others three arrived ?”. So I reply, “Yes please cancel the two No Stock items and ship the remaining 5 items when they arrive.” as I didn’t want to hold up the order any longer than it already been in limbo.
June 30, 2014
Finally another email, “Dear Art, We remove POT1KBSHAFTD and 7FB5641AB from your orders. Currently, only these three items are unavailable from your order and they will arrive our warehouse end of this week when your orders are shipped.” WTF, now only 3 items that our unavailable, I’m really making progress. I’m only 2 weeks in and I only have to wait until the end of the week before it ships. Good thing I’m not in any hurry. I reread the email, “will arrive our warehouse end of this week when your orders are shipped.” That puts the ship date around July 4, 2014.
July 23, 2014
No communication from Futurlec. I now begin to feel like this whole thing is a scam. Try to find a phone number on the Futurlec site and all you’ll get is a fax. The only customer service contact points are to send an email or to send a fax. It has now been over a month and I have received no product and damn little information from Futurlec. I now look through my credit card statements and find that Futurlec charged both orders against the card on June 19. From the looks of it, they billed me the full amount of both orders, so I now wonder what actual product I’ll get as I had ask them to ship and not wait for some of the components. Because they were paid in Australian Dollars a $3.77 foreign transaction fee was thrown in “just to sweeten my already awesome deal”.
I decide that I have been ripped off so I send an email to cancel my order and refund my money. I get no communication from Futurec.
August 22, 2014
I proceed to file a complaint with the New York Better Business Bureau, complaint ID #10152853. Surprisingly there weren’t but a handful (maybe 3?) other complaints against Futurlec but not to my surprise they were all handled exactly like my orders. The positive news was that it looked like the company had resolved them, there was hope for my order yet.
Email from firstname.lastname@example.org indicates they have something that requires my action, it turns out to be the message from the business.
MESSAGE FROM BUSINESS:
Your Order 2xxxxx and Order 2xxxxx, have been shipped together with tracking number RG xxx xxx xxx x DE , this was shipped on the 18th of August. For the parts that have been cancelled, a refund has been issued for this amount.
August 27, 2014
My orders from Futurelec are delivered via standard post to my home.
August 28, 2014
I will accept the business response to the New York BBB and call it a day. Am I happy? Well I am happy that Futurlec is not a scam and I am glad to have received my electronic components. It only took 72 days for my order to be fulfilled. I have seen several customer experiences that were identical to mine but I am somewhat surprised to see more than a few Futurlec customer supporters. They admit that order delivery was slow but many had been very happy with the product and pricing they had received, enough so that they continue to order from them. Sadly for me and for Futurlec, I will not be ordering from them again.
Due to the delay in receiving the needed components from Futurlec, I placed an order with a more customer oriented company, Jameco Electronics. I placed this order on July 17, 2014 and my order was shipped the next day July 18, 2014. Not only was my complete order fulfilled and shipped but I also received an email offering me free shipping on my next order as a new customer. I wonder who I’ll order from next time?
You have been reading yet another rant from the shop journal of the Turtlecovebrewer. But I hope to get in the shop over the long Labor Day weekend and finish up the drawers of 10-Drawer Tool Chest build.
So when I began my woodworking journey, I naively thought that I would go metric. Why not, I don’t have that many tools and I’m new to the sport, eh “craft” so why not get with the program and go metric? When I was coughing up cash for some Lee Valley tools I purchased this sweet square; in metric.
I figured that this would be the first in a long line of metric tooling for my brand new workshop. Sadly, this is not the case. This awesome tool is the only purely metric tool in my workshop.
Now the good news is that most of my other measuring devices support metric measurement although usually they do so by means of a secondary scale. Please believe me when I say that I’m no zealot, I’m a patriotic American but I think we’re stuck in this hell and no one knows how to make it stop. I certainly get that we need some level of backwards compatibility as we stop the madness but I never expected every single tool and woodworking plan to be in Imperial measurements exclusively.
We’re all stuck with no way out. If we’re in love with the inch fine. Can’t stand the centimeter OK. But why the stupid fractions? Wouldn’t it at least make some sense to use decimal inches. Just saying, I mean come on. I can DO the math, and my calculator can DO the math but I really shouldn’t have to. You can’t even intuitively know which friggin’ drill bit to pull out because the numbering system is ludicrous, let’s see which 13/32 or 27/64? Yes, I gave you an easy one but my point is we shouldn’t need to work so hard to find the middle of 3/8 + 3/16 minus the 1/8 offsets on both sides.
I still wish I could convert to metric but it would seem that in doing so, I’d have to work even harder than simply living with fractions. There, I’ve said it now I feel better :-)
You have been reading a rant from the shop journal of the Turtlecovebrewer.
I was blessed with one day in the shop this weekend as Saturday was a road trip day for me and Susan. I finished up last weekend’s effort realizing that the drawer sides, backs and fronts were all proud and had to be fit to the case. Better too big than too small I suppose but having already glued up 4 of the 10 drawers meant it wouldn’t be as easy as running them through the table saw or so I found out.
Build Day 5 – Gluing and Fitting Drawer Sides
I thought that I had been careful to dial in my measurements when milling the drawer sides. I took my time and got it just right before starting on the sides glue up last weekend. After the glue-up I found none of the 4 fit and were both too tall and too wide for the case. Sigh. I’m really not surprised after all I have no previous experience with this sort of work so I’m reading and learning as I go. I reasoned that I could trim up the frame on the table saw which turned out to be true in the width dimension. The frame was wide and sturdy and when laid flat up against the rip fence the cut was smooth with just a bit of tear out on the end grain as the saw blade left the work piece. The tear out was worse on the oak face so I learned to lead with the oak, trimming approximately half off of each side of the frame until I dialed in the fit.
I found trimming the height on the table saw turned out to be a different story. I probably could have trimmed the awkward frame if I had bothered to make a tall fence jig to hold the piece vertically. I tried sawing one without a tall fence and it turned out how you might have predicted a real mess. Butchered it up pretty good but… I was able to salvage it by cleaning it up with a plane and using it on the top drawer which as it turns out was the smallest of all the evenly sized drawers. At this point I got real busy with the block plane and it took a while but I was able to fit the 4 glued frames to the case.
Now that I had a better idea of sizing the sides, I took the unassembled pieces back to the table saw for tweaking prior to gluing.
I decided to see if my corner clamps were of any benefit gluing up these frames and I found that using all 4 provide great results.
I started by locking all four sides in place, squaring up the corners. Then I gently loosened the two clamps which held the front, applied glue then gently locked it back in place. Before cinching it down I applied quick clamps on both sides to draw the pieces together then locked it back with the miter clamp. I could then take the quick clamps off and repeat for the drawer back. The only draw back is that I could only glue up one frame at a time having to let things set up before moving to the next frame. I’m glad I tried it and would have completed all the frames this way had I experimented earlier.
So the afternoon’s work found me with 10 glued up drawer frames. My next session I’ll be fitting the remaining drawers and then gluing the frames to the draw bottoms. After that I’ll be able to think about beading the drawers and fitting pulls. I predict it will be 2 or 3 more build days then I can start finishing the piece. Please don’t get me wrong, this hobby has taught me humility and patience and I’m not in a hurry. I enjoy my time working in the shop so it takes as long as it takes and that’s OK by me.
I’m learning shop tips and tricks all the time and some are pretty basic but very important. Last Friday I stumbled upon a Forrest Saw Blade video which happened to be sponsored by Woodcraft. I learned that the blade should be raised way above the work piece for ripping cuts, about one inch above the work piece for cross cuts and just clearing the tooth gullet for plywood. Dude, no wonder my rips were almost catching the wood on fire. Yes, you really need to be careful of that wicked spinning blade but I couldn’t believe the difference. I had been raising the blade so that the gullets just clear the wood for all cuts and on rips I could easily stop the blade the blade and lots of burning on the edges. Education is a good thing.
Using the miter clamps was good thing also and I’ve no doubt this trick will be useful on future builds.
And one other trick that I’ve yet to use but will do so once the drawers are finished and that is to the fix the chest so that it doesn’t rock. As I have learned, furniture with 4 legs often have this problem. With 3 points of attachment, you define a plane and if you add the 4th point, it too must be on the same plane or else you have rocking. Gary Rogowski, Director of The Northwest Woodworking Studio provided a great video tutorial on Leveling Chair Legs showing us how this problem can be easily and efficiently fixed. I won’t say “I can’t wait to try this” but I know I’m going to have to give it go because my chest rocks and that ain’t cool.
You have been reading an excerpt from the shop journal of the Turtlecovebrewer.